Caroline Hu

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creative direction by

DEBORAH FERGUSON

photography by

HEIDI TAPPIS

J ust a year out of Parson’s MFA design program, Caroline Hu is impressing New York’s fashion world with her colorful and dramatic gowns. Hu’s intricate, yet fresh designs capture the complexity and fearlessness of the contemporary woman. We caught up with Caroline in New York to check out her latest work and talk about the events that led her to a career that will only get more exciting with time.

Caroline, where are you from? And what inspired you to live in the USA?

I come from ShenZhen China. I learned pattern making two years in Beijing, and my BFA graduated fromCentral Saint Martins London, I just want to change city to look around the world. And my husband lives in New York, family for me also a very important part.

When were you first inspired to be a fashion designer and study the craft of design?

I can’t remember which moment I decided to be a fashion designer, but I always loved the arts. My father was a painter when I was very small, my oil painter teacher is a ceramic craft artist. I love handmade things because of my environment. That’s why I love drawing and ceramic craft when I was very young. My oil painting teacher is my best friend, sometimes he would disappear for a month to a village to find a view for his painting.

He is a very emotional and fun person. Very deep into the arts. I learned lots of things from him, how to love yourself and follow your heart. Easier said than done. I love to know and feel different people how they see this world, including love, politics, environment, how they express themselves. I think fashion just the way I can express my love and feeling. I love something with ‘temperature’, maybe that’s why I love handmade texture.

Does your home country/culture inspire your design process?

Yes, that is always in my mind. But I am very emotional person. I’m always inspired by all things romantic, maybe a poem, a song, a painting, or a journal from my mum long time ago. I’m pretty sure I will have a collection that is about my country in my personal view to the future.

What events led up to you attending the Parsons MFA program?

Because of Shelley Fox, I’m really glad she could be my professor, and dear Joff.

Can you share the process and time it took to design such a poetic, sculptural collection?

I like painting or sketches color after I have inspiration, and I will start to do different kind of textile. I try to translate my color and feeling to fabric. Sometimes I will play with projector after making lots of samples.

“I’m always inspired by all things romantic, maybe a poem, a song, a painting, or a journal from my mum long time ago.”

This particular collection has a slight melancholic mixed with an art feel, what was the process of inspiration that evoked such creations?

I have different story in my mind when I want to create a new collection. When I’m designing different clothes I will choose specific music during that time period. For me fashion design is the way to express my feeling of arts, I need to be in a very inspired environment and following my heart.

Every textile and color are coming from my personal view, no one can guide me. I think everyone has different color tone, maybe influenced from by your country, culture, parents, food… what you see and feel during your growth background.

Are there any specific fabrics that inspired you to start creating these silhouettes?

Actually I need to try different fabric, because my smocking machine can’t use too thick fabric. But lace is the choice for my inspiration.

Are there any past or present designers or artists that inspire your design process?

Hieronymus Bosch is my favor painter, some of my looks inspire from his painting. Designer part… I love John Galliano and Maison Margiela.

“Every textile and color are coming from my personal view, no one can guide me.”

Do you have a muse or a type of woman or person you hope to see wear your designs?

Marina Abramovic

Are there any future goals for your brand to remain highly crafted and visionary?

I don’t have enough budget to design collections at this stage, but I plan to have two collections, one year. I still have lots of ideas want to show to people. After that I want use my fashion language to design on the body. I hope I can bring different fashion view in this industry.